An intriguing brooch by Carlo Giuliano

This splendidly eccentric, quirky and eclectic jewel created by Carlo Giuliano probably around 1880, is a pastiche of Renaissance motifs combined with others drawn from the esoteric symbolism of the Western Mystery Schools.

Carlo Giuliano's gold and enamel gem-set brooch, decorated with the figure of Venus enamelled en ronde bosse, holding a diamond-set mirror and wearing a draped enamelled wrap, under a canopy set with cushion-shaped rubies and rose-cut diamonds, circa 1880

The veiled figure of Venus, holding a diamond-set mirror, is drawn directly from mid 16^th century iconography as seen in engravings such as those of Virgil Solis and jewels and precious objects in the style of Erasmus Hornick, which were inspirational to other 19^th century revivalist jewellers such as Lucien Falize.

Erasmus Hornick (circa 1520-1583), design for a ewer, etching, 1565, from a series of eighteen designs for vases and goblets. The relief is decorated with sea gods and creatures and in the centre Venus is depicted riding two dolphins | Image: Metropolitan Museum of New York

The symbolism, however, is also closely related to the ‘World’, the twenty-second card of The Major Arcana of Tarot which was enjoying renewed interest from the mid-century onwards throughout Europe under the influence of the writings of Eliphas Levi.

Lucien Falize (1839-1897), Fortuna pendant, late 19th century

Levi was a widely read and celebrated French esotericist and magician, who was responsible for sparking off the revival of interest in ceremonial magic in Europe and yet was much misunderstood in his day. He is remembered today for his pioneering occult writings and illuminating aphorisms: ‘Nothing can resist the will of man when he knows what is true and wills what is good’.

The World, the twenty-first card of The Major Arcana, the cartomantic tarot pack, from the BOTA deck

We believe it is perfectly possible that this unusual jewel was commissioned by a high grade initiate of one of the important secret esoteric societies such as the Golden Dawn in London which counted among its members, William Butler Yeats, Florence Beatrice Farr and William Wynn Westcott.